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F&B
The bulb of contention
Can Allium sativum or the humble garlic be separated from
Italian food, or vice-versa? This bulbous member of the onion family is raising
a funk back in the homeland. By Neeti Mehra
 It
all started when the stylish La Trattorias in Rome's chef, Filippo La Mantia
banished the bulb from his kitchen. His contention is that garlic is a leftover
from an impoverished past, and needn't be found in an Italian kitchen in a time
of plenty. Not his, atleast. Instead, the chef flavours his cuisine with citrus
fruits such as oranges and lemon and other fresh scented herbs such as mint,
basil, and capers. While these culinary elites might not eliminate garlic completely
from Italian cuisine just yet, this has raised a discussion whether the white
cloves enhance or overwhelm the flavour of food.
The pungent debate
In India, while certain communities such as the Jains and
the Marwaris survive without garlic, it is used liberally in cuisines from other
regions. In Italy itself, the usage varies from region to region. Italian specialist
chef, Bill Marchetti, consultant advisor to Blue Food’s spaghetti kitchen,
speaking of garlic's prevalence in Italy, says, "Further north in Italy,
the use of garlic decreases vis-à-vis the southern part. For instance,
a garlic clove will be lightly sautéed in olive oil and thereafter is
discarded, resulting in the dish having a light flavour." But does the
Italian chef in India see garlic going out of fashion anytime soon? Speaking
of its usage, Dario Dezio, master chef, Corleone - InterContinental Marine Drive,
a native of Italy, says, "In terms of Italian cuisine, it has always played
an integral part in a vast number of recipes, and marries well with tomato which
is used for the base of many pasta and pizza dishes." Chef Dezio's take
on the whole garlic debate leans in favour of the bulb. "Filippo La Mantia
may have banned garlic from his restaurant; perhaps he finds it over-powering
and prefers more delicate flavours. However, the health-giving and preventative
properties of garlic, in my opinion, far outweigh its pungency. Garlic has been
proved to lower cholesterol and to thin the blood, apart from the antiseptic,
anti-bacterial and anti-fungal properties," he says.
Sartaj Bedi, GM, Out of the Blue, feels that the anti-garlic lobby is akin to
culinary snobbery. "The west prefers more subtle flavours while Indians
lean towards bold flavours. Garlic tends to overwhelm other subtle flavours.
Its volatile juice gives an element of spice which Indian palates prefer,"
he says, and adds that when used in moderation, it enhances every dish.
| A perennial bulb from the onion family and one of
the oldest known medicinal plants, Allium sativum, or garlic, has been used
in food across cultures and geographical boundaries. It originated from
Central Asia, and spread in ancient times to the Mediterranean region and
beyond. A remedy using garlic was found on a Sumerian clay tablet, dating
back to 3,000 BC. It was known and used by advanced ancient civilisations
of the Indus Valley from where it spread to China. The Spanish, Portuguese
and French introduced it to the New World. Its association with popular
folklore continues till date. In the middle ages it was thought to keep
away vampires, because of its strong smell. It even finds mention in 8th
century BC Greek Homer's and Iliad and the Odyssey. Various studies point
out that consumption of garlic can decrease the progression of cardiovascular
disease, reduce and prevent catching the common cold, and offer protection
against cancer. |
At full intensity
While critics continue to curb the usage of garlic, there are ways and means
of tempering its overpowering taste. Chef Dezio believes its pungency can be
balanced out, and explains, "In the south of Italy strong, gutsy aromas
are appreciated and its intensity can be balanced by using lemon, parsley and
various other herbs so that it doesn't over-power." It also depends on
the place of origin of the garlic. Says Bedi, "Italian cuisine is influenced
by local palate so its taste would differ based on which part of the world you
are eating it in. Chefs use different types of garlic. The Chinese garlic is
more pronounced in flavour, Indian garlicof personal preference. The balance
is to be achieved by the chef, Bedi points out. An accompaniment too does wonders
to enhance the taste. While Dezio recommends a good robust full-bodied red wine,
or otherwise a really chilled crisp white wine, Bedi, getting, specific recommends
a white Burgundy, or a Gewurztraminer to go with the dish.
| Chef Dario Dezio, master chef, Corleone - InterContinental
Marine Drive prepares a versatile and easy recipe with garlic.
Ingredients:
6 large crushed cloves of garlic
A generous pinch of salt,
Juice of 3 lemons
2 teaspoons fresh chopped parsley
1/2 teaspoon of oregano
8 tablespoosn extra virgin olive oil.
Method:
Mix all the ingredients. This can be used to marinate fish or chicken
which can then be grilled or baked. Also, baked whole mushrooms or slices
of paneer are great with half of the sauce poured over while cooking and
the other half just before serving.
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A garlicky experience
Worldwide, garlic is venerated at festivals such as the Isle of White Garlic
Festival that is held in the UK and attracts 20,000 visitors from across the
world, and the Gilroy Festival in California, which this year will celebrate
three decades in July. In fact, San Francisco, California has a restaurant known
as The Stinking Rose, which serves Californian-Italian cuisine that soaks and
reeks of garlic, with a motto of seasoning their garlic with food. But would
a completely garlicky restaurant do well in India? Says Chef Dezio, "It
could work here as garlic is used liberally and is loved in Indian cuisine."
Bedi, however, begs to differ.
"A restaurant around a single ingredient is not a viable
idea for the long term. The Stinking Rose operates in a niche market and offers
a limited market opportunity," he points out. Leaving this scented trail
behind, the best way to avoid the smell, apart from not consuming garlic, is
using an effective camouflage. Chef Dezio recommends in conclusion, "To
mask the aroma of a garlicky meal, I recommend a good Italian espresso!"
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