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www.expresshospitality.com FORTNIGHTLY INSIGHT FOR THE HOSPITALITY TRADE
16-31 March 2008  
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Home - Management - Article

F&B

Goa on a platter

There is much more served up in Goa than fresh crustaceans from the sea. The men who rule the culinary universe at the Park Hyatt Goa speak of regional and international influences on the grub of the land. By Neeti Mehra

Trilok Narain, EAM - F&B, Park Hyatt Goa and Asif Mehrudeen, executive chef, Park Hyatt Goa, have a lot up their sleeves. With years of international experience backing them, they have brought in a flavour of the foreign lands to the Goan shores. Says Narain, "Cuisine should be true and consistent with the destination."

The fuss over fusion

Authenticity is big on the menu. The property has five restaurants that includes their signature Goan fine dining restaurant, Casa Sarita, where the Goan Chef Sarita prepares authentic home style food. The emphasis is on freshness, and the menu includes the fresh catch of the day, with cooking techniques revolving around healthy food. "We don't believe in fusion, and stretch ourselves to get that level of authenticity using high quality local spices." There is also a stress on the use of organic vegetables. Chef Mehrudeen also points out that smaller portions permit guests to try more varieties of food, across courses. "Within Asia we are pushing towards simplicity," he says. As overtly complex food typically falls out of favour, restaurants serve up home-style food, with a contemporary twang.


Asif Mehrudeen, executive chef, Park Hyatt Goa

Trilok Narain, EAM, F&B, Park Hyatt Goa

Going healthy

Park Hyatt Goa introduced its spa menu six months ago. The emphasis is on low-carbs, low fat, char-grilled, steamed and baked food, and fresh juices. Put simply, it means basic, comfort food, they emphasise. Many a time the flavour of the food is lost in a panoply of ingredients, added to boost its taste and look. But this is a technique that they do not employ. "We keep the integrity of the cuisine and don't add taste enhancers," said Narain.

Analysing the menu at Casa Sarita
The restaurant is a traditionally designed Goan house that serves up home-style Goan food. The menu includes Portuguese bacalhau salt cod fritter with parsley, onion and chilli sauce and prawns pastelihos which is stuffed prawns in pastry served hot, with lime chilli vinegar. The soup selection includes sopa de camarao e batat, which is prawns, potatoes, lemon and spring onions, whereas Goan pork sausage tossed with onions and coriander vinaigrette are found in the salad selection. Vegetables include beans foogath, with fresh coconut, roasted black mustard seeds and vegetable xacutti. The main course includes prawn curry cooked with coconut, coriander and dried red chilli. From the stir-fried and grilled Goan specialties is eixe com tempero verde - a seared fillet of modso baked with green masala. Desserts include the traditional Goan speciality bebinca and crispy churros rolled in cashew nuts.

Shifting plates

Apart from this, there has been a distinct shift in the palate which was accustomed to and demanded Thai and Italian food. Moreover, the changing lifestyles of Indians, with more and more women working, more processed foods are entering homes, and there is a demand for more varieties of cuisine. But within this shift too, there is a change in the type of food that people would want to eat. Chef Mehrudeen concurs and believes that the contemporary avatar of traditional techniques is the way forward. "Food will be presented in a modern way." However, when asked whether the trends will swing towards classical, fusion or contemporary cuisine, he says that it is the classical style that works best. So what cuisine will be popular in the future, apart from the staple Thai? Narain feels that Vietnamese cuisine will pick up in popularity. Another interesting trend he speaks of is Indian chefs working abroad packing their bags and coming home to capture a slice of the Indian markets.

 


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