Eastern brew

After wine, India readies itself for yet another exotic brew from a distant land - sake, or the 'rice wine'. By Sayoni Bhaduri

A nation undiscovered for more than three centuries hides within itself some of the deepest spiritual secrets, including the unique brew of sake. Legend has it that sake goes back to the third century. But the production these days has not only improved but it is also produced in countries as far away as US, Australia and the South Americas. During the Russo-Japanese War in 1904-1905, sake constituted as much as 30 per cent of Japanese tax revenues but today it is less than two per cent. Nevertheless, it still retains its intoxicating magic and India is just beginning to explore it.

All about sake

In Japan, sake is not a name of any particular beverage - it is a generic term. What the world knows as alcoholic beverage originating from Japan is actually known as Nihonshu. In Japan, sake is officially known as seishu. According to Harry Cheng, director of MaidoIndia, sake is a wine fermented from rice and is not a distilled product like spirits.

The brewing process involves multiple fermentation of polished rice. During the process of milling first the proteins and oils are removed from the exterior of the grain. A more detailed milling also removes the congeners and what is left is just starch. The fermentation first converts starch into sugar with a little help from enzymes. This is followed by the conversion of sugar into alcohol with a little yeast. The entire process is quite similar to that of beer, except that while in beer multiple fermentation take place in a serial order, in sake it is a simultaneous process.

An interesting facet is that sake is either made purely with rice or with a little addition of alcohol. The further subdivision goes according to the amount of alcohol is added or conversely how much milling the rice goes through. There are four groups of sake with added alcohol; the first is the cheapest form of sake with lots of alcohol to increase yield. The other three are honjozo, ginjo sake and daiginjo sake. There are three types of sake made with rice one - junmai, junmai-ginjo and junmai-daiginjo sake.

When discussing tastes, sake is either sweet or dry depending upon the balance between sugar and acid. Most enjoyable sake would be the one with clean flavour created by the perfect balance by the sugars and the acid. "Alcohol content however depends upon the product variety," says Cheng. It varies from nine per cent to 19 per cent.

Ideally sake needs to be consumed within two days of opening. If kept open more than that, it starts oxidising. The serving style depends on the variety of the sake. Cheng says, "In some Western and even Asian markets some people prefer hot sake." Some sake varieties are great at a maximum of 50 degree Celsius served in ceramic cups or carafes. Others are enjoyed best at normal room temperature in a large wine glass to appreciate its complex flavours and aromas. For those who like fruity and aromatic sakes, it should be served chilled at ten degree Celsius in a traditional wine glass.

In India?

India has recently made great progress as far as wine is concerned and sake is expected to do the same. Japanese cuisine is on an upswing and sushi and sashimi have become a must-have delicacy for the upper echelons of the diverse Indian society. But the breakthrough is yet to be made. Cheng says, "So far, the market for sake in India has not been huge, but we are looking at the future, not the past. Our experience across the world is that Japanese food becomes popular - it starts with sushi and sashimi and then spreads to tempura and so on."

Then there are the cultural similarities. Buddhism for instance. But of more relevance is the 'culture of rice' as Cheng puts it. He says, "India has a strong rice culture and as such beverages made from rice are naturally more appealing to the Indian market." He adds that a survey conducted by Akashi Breweries over the past six months has shown this trend, particularly in three varieties - the Princess Rose, Genmai Yamadanishiki and Shiraume Umeshu.

Says Cheng, "It is important to get opinion leaders and early adopters to try sake. Once these people become advocates, the market will expand quickly." Top five-star hotels and standalone restaurants is where sake is making its appearance right now. Cheng is candid enough to even mention a particular favourite of star hotels in Mumbai, "Genmai Yamadanishiki is a clear favourite with JW Marriott, Mumbai."

The problem is not in the level of acceptance by government laws with regard to the imports of such products. "MaidoIndia has started sake distribution in Mumbai and plans to expand distribution to Bangalore, Delhi, Hyderabad, Kolkata, Chennai, Goa and other territories in India," informs Cheng. This is what has led to the creation of the Sake Club of India, a small body made up of 'opinion leaders and early adopters'. Now all that is required is awareness and an understanding of the product.