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Gourmet Trail
A gourmand around Lake Constance
Straddling the Rhine area around Germany, Austria and Switzerland,
Lake Constance is a freshwater lake that is the perfect alcove for a gourmet's
palate. By Neeti Mehra
In and around the deep waters of Lake Constance is a treasure
trove of edible delicacies. A gourmet tour around the region, organised by The
Central Marketing Organisation of the German Agricultural Industries along with
the European Union, gave a kaleidoscopic insight to the culinary possibilities
that could find their way to India. Lake Bodensee, as it is known in German,
has the distinction of being the third biggest lake in Europe, with Germany,
Austria and Switzerland sharing its 273 kilometer long shoreline, the largest
portion being in Germany. Named after an eighth century Carolingian palatinate
named Bodmann, the region is sandwiched between the Alps and the Jura Mountains
wherein lies a feast for the senses.
Fishy and vino tales
The Rhine included, 236 rivers and streams feed Constance.
Geographically, the lake is divided into three regions, Obersee, the upper lake;
Uberlinger Sea; Lake Uberlingen, the northwest part; and Untersee, the lower
lake. This unique topography, coupled with the mild climate attracted dense
settlements around the lake and lush foliage well suited for the cultivation
of vineyards and orchards. And woven around these regions are gastronomic possibilities,
as fluid as the lake itself.
Understandably, catches from the Lake find their way to the
table all year round, be it perch, trout, eel, char, pike, quab
and whitefish. Fresh produce from orchards and fields, especially
on the island of Reichenau, along with game are also on offer for
the taking. While beer is a staple of this region, wine has been
produced for nearly eight centuries, producing hybrids of Sylvaner
and Reisling, known as the Muller-Thurgau, distinguishable with
the aroma of grape fruit, citrus and green apples. The favourable
climate of the lake that equalises temperature change and reflects
sunlight ensures stable growth. And adding to the tipplers delight
are also schnapps and liqueurs.
| Fromage and royalty have the same connection
as blue cheese has to blue blood. From Lake Constance to upper
Bavaria, the Schönegger Käse-Alm, overlooking the
Alps produces cheese using traditional recipes that include
a range branded as King Ludwig, and also a bio cheese range.
The cheese is ripened for weeks in some cases (Camembert) or
for years (Parmesan). But there are more reasons to wait patiently
for the cheese to ripen. Apart from bio cheese, fitness cheese
containing 35 per cent dry fats is finding its way to the shelves,
apart from cheese with unusual flavourings such as alt and grape.
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The apple of Constance's eye
The unique climate of the area is ideal for apple orchards.
Being 400 metres above sea level, with the Alps on one side, and sunny days
on the other, yields of high quality fruit abound. The Obst Vom Bodensee is
the co-operative where varieties of apples are stocked, packaged and transported.
Germany cultivates 80 million commercial apple trees and this mind-boggling
figure translates to one apple tree for every person in the country! Some popular
varieties out of the thirteen that come to the co-operative from the Constance
region include Jonagold, Gala, Golden Delicious, Rubinette and Braeburn.
While apples make up 95 per cent of the fruit produce, the
other five per cent consists of pears, cherries, strawberries, and
plums. Large portions of apples are exported too, with approximately
60 per cent going to the European Union, and the rest to Russia.
Interestingly, while the German market is fond of multi-hued apples,
the Russians and British prefer single-toned apples. The organic
trend has crept in here too, with the cultivation of organic apples
being started over two years ago. With 30 truckloads containing
20 tonnes each of apples being sold from the co-operative daily,
fruit from the region is finding its way to apple pies across the
world.
With multiple wining and dining options available, Lake Bodensee
is akin to an apple, the originally sinful gastronomical journey.
| Stretching from Constance in Germany to Bregenz in
Austria is the Upper Lake Area, and from Friedrichshafen to Arbon, the section
is 500 square kilometers, the largest of the three. In this area, Meersburg,
a former fishing village; Friedrichshafen, set amongst meadows and orchards;
Lindau, a former seaport, and Bregenz, across the border in Austria were
stops on the route. Coasting along, there was a halt at Mainau Island, in
the Middle Lake Area, which stretches till Uberlingen. Across the lake are
some specialties which are found in menus in most restaurants across the
region.
Kasspatzle (Cheese spatzle noodles)
Traditionally shaped by spoon or by hand, the dough is pressed through
a spatzle form directly into boiling water to produce either a lentil-shaped
or noodle-shaped spatzle. It is mixed with cheese and served with cooked
golden brown crispy onions.
Maultaschen (Pasta parcels)
This specialty food consists of flat pasta parcels stuffed with sausage,
and is akin to ravioli, though not quite. The stuffing at times ranges
from other meats to vegetarian also. It can be simmered in a vegetable
broth, served in a clear soup or fried with onions and served along with
a salad - usually potato.
Zwiebelrostbraten (Roast beef with onions)
Roast beef served with crisp golden fried onions, along with a gravy dish
with potatoes on the side. The meat used is beef back.
Schweinebraten (Roast Pork)
Served with spatzle noodles, roast tender pork is served in a dark gravy.
Schweizer Wurstsalat (Sausage meat salad)
In the salad, strips of sausage are mixed along with a strong dressing
and pickled onions and gherkins. The Swiss variety includes cheese.
Kretzerle (Perch from Lake Constance)
A perfect combination of fresh water fish and beer, pieces of fish are
baked in dough of sweet beer. Serving styles include a bed of salad or
with remoulade sauce and potatoes. The Perch from Lake Constance is called
Kretzer or Igli.
Wiener Schnitzel (Viennese cutlet)
A traditional Austrian dish, it consists of very thinly sliced veal (which
has been tenderised by pounding the veal with a meat mallet) coated with
wheat flour, egg and breadcrumbs and fried. Traditionally it is served
with a cucumber salad or a potato salad. Variations are schnitzels made
from pork or beef, and served with gravy and chips or tomato salsa, cheese
and bacon.
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The city of Strasbourg in France was a culinary detour from Lake Constance.
Strasbourg, the capital of Alsace, has the moniker of being the most famous
gourmet region of France. Perched across the River Rhine from Germany,
Strasbourg lingers between their borders, literally and gastronomically.
The Alsatians, as its inhabitants are known, speak a German dialect. Devoted
to their cooking, the region is legendry hitherto and can be sampled at
winstubs - the city's typical small family-owned restaurants. Country
recipes include the starters - saveloy salad, which is a sausage salad;
the Alsace onion tart - a crispy delicacy stuffed with bacon; Snails a
l'Alsacienne - snails served with garlic butter; Flammekueche - a tarte
flambee, using smoked breast of bacon. The main course includes baeckoffe,
a stew of meat, potatoes and spices and Schiffala - smoked shoulder of
pork; and the Coq au Riesling, or chicken with Cognac and Riesling. For
dessert, gourmets can tuck into Birewecke - fruitcake, or a l'alasacienne
(apple tart).
In France, wine waltzes along with the food. The Alsace region, famed
for its 170 kilometre wine route is a medieval maze of wineries speckled
with castles and villages. The wines of the region carry the AOC status.
The principal one, AOC Alsace, constitutes 83 per cent of total production.
Whites dominate this portfolio. The seven grape varieties include the
fresh Sylvaner; the delicate Pinot Blanc; the only red of the region -
Pinot Noir; the dry yet distinguished Riesling; the aromatic Muscat; the
opulent Pinot Gris; and the tongue-twister, Gewurztraminer, that makes
for a perfect aperitif. Beer has its tentacles spread since 1260 in the
region, and is the pour of choice alongside wine.
Delicacies thrive on street corners too. While the sauerkraut influence
comes from its neighbour, France, being the largest producer of Foie Gras
warrants a pit stop at Georges Bruck, a fifth generation family firm that
has been producing the elitist 'Foie Gras de Strasbourg', since 1852.
This luxury edible is consumed on special occasions; be it for Christmas
or a family celebration, the store manager informed. However, the duck
version of it, which is the cheaper variety, is more ubiquitously consumed.
While Foie Gras' production method inflames ethical welfare activists,
in 2005, a whopping 23,500 tonnes of Foie Gras were produced across the
world! Taking the bend around Strasbourg Cathedral, a chocolatier awaits.
Stephane Gross, an artisan chocolatier, whips up bizarre marriages in
his chocolate boutique that leave an addictively pleasing aftertaste.
Chew on this - milk chocolate ganache with chestnut flower honey and dark
chocolate ganache with Earl Grey tea. Fresh ginger, basil and thyme are
used extensively in the chocolates. Gross' chocolate bar, a shop away,
serves shakes, coffees and snacks made in chocolate with panache. A dinner
at La Petite Alsace completes the culinary circle in the region of the
Alsatians.
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