Hot Seat

Cooking up a storm

Indian cuisine has been honed to a fine art with the two Ps - preparation and presentation, which appeal to the third and the most critical P - the palate. Epitomising this is Manjit S Gill, corporate executive chef at ITC Hotels and president of Indian Federation of Culinary Associations, who has unleashed a culinary storm in his career. He reveals to Neeti Mehra his recipe of success

In 1974, a fresh graduate from Institute of Hotel Management (IHM), New Delhi had no idea that he would one day lead the Indian culinary bastion with the Northwest frontier tandoori cuisine right into the annals of history.

The protagonist of this spice tale is none other than Manjit S Gill, chef par excellence and vanguard of the Burra Kebab and Dal Bukhara invasion on to the table of every gourmand to have dined at Bukhara, ITC Maurya Sheraton, New Delhi. In fact, for the fourth year running, it has been selected as one of the 50 World's Best Restaurants and Asia's Best Indian Restaurant by the renowned UK magazine, Restaurant. While he fixes another feather in his cap, he equates his first love, in a quaint way, to life. "In many respects my philosophy on food and life are the same. Both should be an experience of happiness, serenity and joy," he reflects.

The fledgling

After graduating, he joined the Oberoi School of Hotel Management as a food production trainee for three years. His association with ITC Maurya Sheraton began in 1977 and in 1981, he took over as its executive chef. Speaking on this, he says, "I have grown with the company, gaining inputs and imparting knowledge, with an opportunity to work with different personalities."

In his nearly three-decade long career, he has faced challenges with equanimity, which he feels is an offshoot of his profession. "Challenges are meant to be met with fervour and be a learning experience. Cooking teaches one to be mature and wise; it trains one in switching roles from a cook to a husband, a friend or a father." he espouses, a philosophy, which has entailed him in good stead. Today, other speciality cuisine restaurants apart from Bukhara are Dum Pukht, The Jolly Nabobs and Kebobs & Kurry.

Today, he holds the mantle of corporate executive chef at ITC Hotels. Heading the culinary team has been a journey through which he has imbibed the four essentials of a successful chef: thirst for knowledge, involvement in cooking, presence of mind and good thoughts, he says. Concurrently, the journey was witness to another distinct evolution - the Indian palate. "Our taste buds are deep rooted. Indian cuisine has developed much like our taste for other cuisine, which are also flourishing in India today," he explains.

His path has been speckled with a desire to stay abreast of worldwide trends, and he has attended courses at the School of Hotel Administration, Cornell University covering commercial food production management, F&B control, advanced food production techniques, nutritional cuisine and food styling.

At the pinnacle of his career today, Gill's efforts span new horizons using research to tap into resources hitherto unheard of in the culinary marketplace. He feels innovation and consistency go hand in glove. "Innovation is successful only when you achieve consistency," he opines. His profession doubles as his hobby and will cook at any given opportunity, whether at or for friends.

More on his dish

Today, there is only one Bukhara and nine Peshawari and the status quo remains. However he adds, "Other projects are coming up, wherein we may inculcate these institutions."

Speak to him of patenting signature recipes and Gill says he doesn't believe in it. "Every chef has his own recipe for every dish," he adds. With 'healthy food' becoming the catchword these days, he says that Bukhara food is healthy, explaining, "Wherever you control the process and the nutrients, its healthy cooking."

Despite the long list of celebrity guests, including Prince Charles and the late Princess of Wales, he says that every guest that walks into his restaurant is his favourite. Culinary bearings aside, the philanthropist started the concept Chef & Child, a charitable food event that has taken wings across India with a mandate to raise money for underprivileged children in association with organisations such as CRY and HOPE. Taking his passion to the forefront, this iconic chef also introduced an award dedicated to his mother, Dalip Kaur Gill, for the outstanding student of Food Production of National Council of Hotel Management Studies colleges all over India.

Actively involved in the industry, Gill is president, Indian Federation of Culinary Associations apart from being a member of The Cookery & Food Association, Great Britain and the American Culinary Federation, Chicago, master craftsman at Craft Guild of Chefs, Great Britain and past president and founder member of Indian Culinary Forum, Delhi along with the mantle of being a qualified culinary judge from WACS (World Association of Chef's Societies). He was instrumental in making India a member of this forum.

Gill also has the distinction of being an author, columnist and cookery show pioneer and has had innumerable roles on shows such as Aap Ka Naashta, Dawat, Life Style, and Body Mind & Soul apart from authoring books like Eating Wisely & Well, Indian Spa Cuisine, and is co-author of the recently released Around the World in Eighty Plates. Currently, he is focussing on the philosophy of Indian cookery by rewriting ancient recipes from manuscripts which can be adopted today.

He concludes with his signature modesty, "It's a non-stop journey - with success comes more responsibility towards profession and cuisine."