‘Australian Cuisine Encompasses The World’

Hyatt Regency Mumbai’s Chef de Cuisine Sean Cummings and food and beverage director Grant Pithie give Bhisham Mansukhani an ex tempore, utilitarian’s dossier of Australian cuisine

EH&C: What are the essential elements and how did Australian cuisine evolve?

Europe played an intrinsic influence to start with but in the late 80s, in conjunction with the wine renaissance, Australian chefs reached out again on their own accord and not migration as it was in ancient times, to embrace international styles and retain Australian cuisine’s image as a fundamentally convergent genre. The traditional Australian may still only want his meat and beer. There were the pubs and the tacky Italian joints populating the Australian landscape and then in the mid to late eighties, some restaurants broke the boundaries of conventional cooking style. For instance Asian food predominantly is still is freshness driven since they do not have the luxury of refrigerators and that has been a welcome influence for Australian cuisine.

One of recent developments in the last five years, contemporary Australian cuisine is not about recipes but the products. They have to be fresh. Another misconception is that the menu is the centre of the chef’s ego. The menu is a suggestion for the uninitiated, not a constraint and that is a hallmark of Australian hospitality. Australian cuisine encompasses the world.

What would a typical Australian meal contain?

An archetypical Australian barbecue on the coast would showcase fresh cold trout, lobster, stake and baked potato in sour cream, ensconced by salad with artichokes and tomatoes, freshly rolled garlic bread while a countryside dinner would include huge roasted beef with potatoes. In urban dos, you would even find lasagnes.

What are the latest trends you would associate with Australian cuisine?

The historical relationship of food and wine in Australia has witnessed a revolution in the last 20 years. Australian cuisine is a direct result of multiculturalism, a blend of many cuisines and at the same time have the good fortune of abundant fresh produce.

How has food and beverage fared at the Hyatt Regency?

We have done 1.85 lakh in four hours just recently if that is any indication. One of the things we stress on a consistency towards the kkkkmore refreshing end. Pairing food and wine is the logical next step but it is important not to make the experience a daunting one. The connisseurs can satisfy their curiosity but the food and beverage should be flexible enough not to inhibit the uninitiated.

Which wines are you looking to put across for your patrons?

Australian wines are looking to get their foot in the door and stand a good chance as the varietals are up front — what you see is what you get. They suit the Indian palate. You can break the rules as far as content is concerned. To say that fish goes only with white wine is an absolute joke. Traditionally duck is served with Pinot Noir but we don’t stock Pinot Noir so Pithie gives me options of available wines that can deliver. That will depend on whether the meat has the skin left on it, the cooking style and the fat content. It leaves a film of fat on the tongue which the wine has to be able to cut through. The wine and the meat have to lift each other. The food and wine is not meant to challenge one another but to complement and that is one of the biggest myths going around.

What would you say is one of your latest challenges in food and beverage?

Hotel food is different from home food and that remains the biggest challenge for hospitality. Bridging that gap is what sets the parameters of quality towards the higher end. We tried to replicate an Australian style Christmas dinner last December at Staxx as an effort in that direction.