Everybody Says The Food Is Fine

Capital View

Rabindra Seth

Fine dining in the capital was redefined when in the seventies the ITC promoted Maurya Sheraton created the Bukhara restaurant. Here was an effort not only to offer a distinctive cuisine cooked in the tandoor or barbecued but also to enjoy it in the rugged atmosphere and surrounding of the era in which it blossomed in central Asia and found an additional home in the North West Frontier Province of undivided India. Finally, Bukhara inspired the acceptance of this ‘North West Frontier’ cuisine throughout India and indeed in many parts of the world. A see- through kitchen introduced in Bukhara is now an integral part of restaurants offering Frontier food.

Suresh Kilam, great grandson of the house boat pioneer of Kashmir

The concept of authentic food in an authentic setting was taken a step further within the decade when the Taj group at its new hotel in Delhi, Taj Palace, brought the experience of dining in the famed Orient Express of Europe. A replica of the dining car of the acclaimed train as a continental restaurant was indeed an innovation and continues to maintain its exclusive charm.

And, now comes yet another new idea dining in a cruiseliner thousands of miles inland. Gurgaon, part of Delhi’s National Capital, Region, which is fast assuming a Manhattan-like skyline has a massive Sahara shopping mall, part of which is the latest eatery The Odyssey shaped like the decks and bridge of luxury liners. It claims to be ‘the largest, longest, tallest, widest and most luxurious stand-alone fine dining restaurant in India’. Its promoter, Suresh Kilam has a very unusual claim to fame in the hospitality sector. A technologist, he is CEO of Asia’s biggest paper and pulp producer in Indonesia, but it, was his great grandfather Narain Das (Raina) who pioneered pioneered houseboats in Kashmir in 1985. By the time of independence in 1947 the family had built and managed 300 houseboats. It was this spark of hospitality in his blood that led to the idea of The Odyssey, he told this writer.

As an NRI he shares his time between India and Indonesia but his charming wife, Bhavan will be the ‘captain of The Odyssey’. He concedes he has no experience in hoteliering but he says he has hired the best consultants. For food he has the well-known consultant, Manu Mohindra and his wife and he has flown in chefs from China, Thailand, Iran and also taken on board experienced hands from India. Much of the ingredients too will be imported for the multiple dining options.

The Odyssey’s 17,500 square foot space spread over two decks, the Promenade and the Bridge is said to be the largest area in any restaurant as also the number of covers at 350 is unmatched. Built at a cost of Rs 12 crore, Kilam’s claim of having opted for the best in furnishings, fixtures, artifacts, crockery and so on is supported on the ground. The deck was designed by Atkins of London; astro turf is from the US; Merbao wood with a density of 1 has been imported from Sumatra; ship artifacts have been obtained from shipbreaking yards in Indonesia and washroom Jacob Delafon from France. Even toothpicks and chopsticks are from Bali. Daroz, the tile sculptor in India has provided murals of pirates. Kilam also claims another first in the realm of entertainment; the high definition music system - OHM - imported from UK is being used for the first time in this country and is the second major installation in the world. Sunny Sarid will be at the controls.

Kilam started work on the restaurant on December 20, 2002. Exactly a year later on December 20, 2002 he had its formal inauguration in the presence of Delhi’s glitterati. Among them was Partha Basu, Chief of P&O Travel India which represents Princess Cruises. He said, “Our association with The Odyssey for this inaugural event is based on commonality of objectives of providing our clients multi-cuisine experience under one roof. The interiors and layout of The Odyssey reflect the ambience of a ship; this coupled with the fine dining experience should give people an idea of what to expect on a cruise”.

Basu reminded the audience that Princess Cruises long history of culinary innovations includes pioneering the concept of 24-hour dining at sea and debuting a number of new alternative restaurant concepts (the Odyssey also plans to stay open 24 hours). He added that in recent years, Princess has introduced a popular premium steak-house option, sea-going sushi bar and was the first line to have all its ships inducted into the prestigious Chaine des Rotisseurs gastronomic society.

The Odyssey will be a welcome addition to the eating out choices in the capital.